At Giron Tree Life Service, I install mulch, decorative gravel, and decomposed granite (DG) that look clean, control weeds, and cut watering. I’m based in Moreno Valley and work across the Inland Empire. My approach is practical: set clean edges, install consistent depth, and leave your yard spotless—delivery, install, and haul-away included.
I always start with a quick walkthrough: we map beds, tree rings, parkways, and any slopes. Then I confirm materials and colors on-site (bark, black/brown mulch, pea gravel, river rock, 3/8″ crushed, or DG). The small details—straight lines, even coverage, tidy borders—are what make the upgrade feel “done right.”
What I Install (and Where Each Shines)
Mulch (bark & wood blends)
- Best for: planter beds, around trees (not touching the trunk), moisture retention, softer look.
- Benefits: reduces evaporation, suppresses weeds, protects soil from heat.
- Pro tip I follow: I keep a 2–3 inch gap around the trunk flare and maintain 2–3 inches depth in beds; if weed suppression is a priority, we can go closer to 3–4 inches.
Decorative Gravel & Rock
- Best for: high-traffic strips, parkways, around AC units, dog runs, modern xeriscape beds.
- Benefits: durable, low maintenance, clean lines with metal or bender-board edging.
- My go-tos: 3/8″ crushed rock for walkable areas; pea gravel or river rock for softer looks; larger cobble as accents.
Decomposed Granite (DG)
- Best for: pathways, sitting areas, side yards, and parkways that need compaction.
- Benefits: firm surface, tidy finish; can be installed natural or with stabilizer for extra durability.
- What I do: grade, lay, wet and compact in lifts; add stabilizer when you need fewer loose fines.
Edging & Weed Control (optional)
- Edging: steel/metal, bender board, pavers—crisp edges are half the look.
- Weed barrier: landscape fabric where it makes sense (not under trees that like organic exchange). I often combine pre-emergent + proper depth for better long-term results.
My Process: Fast, Tidy, and Measurable
- Walkthrough & design touch-ups
We sketch bed lines, agree on materials/colors, and confirm any slope or drainage notes. - Site prep
Remove old material and weeds, grade lightly, compact base where needed, and install edging. - Delivery & placement
Material arrives same day; I place to consistent depth and rake smooth for even color. - Compaction / setting (DG)
I wet, level, and compact DG in lifts; for gravel, I set and sweep to crisp edges. - Clean finish & haul-away
Hard surfaces blown off, debris removed, photos with you before we’re done.
Little thing I insist on: straight string lines for borders and keeping mulch below hardscape height so it doesn’t wash onto walkways.
Depth & Material Guide (What I Recommend)
| Area / Goal | Material | Typical Depth | Notes I Use On-Site |
|---|---|---|---|
| Planter beds (water savings) | Mulch | 2–3 in (3–4 in for weeds) | Keep 2–3 in away from trunks/stems |
| Tree rings | Mulch | 2–3 in | No mulch touching trunk flare |
| Parkways / strips | Gravel (3/8″) | ~2 in | Metal edging holds lines tight |
| Accent beds | River rock / cobble | 2–3 in | Mix sizes for natural look |
| Walkable paths | DG (with/without stabilizer) | ~2 in compacted | Stabilizer for cleaner shoes & fewer fines |
Final specs depend on site grade, irrigation, and traffic. I’ll tailor on the walkthrough.
Where Mulch Wins vs. Where Gravel Wins
Mulch wins when: you want cooler soil, better water retention, a softer garden feel, and easy annual top-ups.
Gravel/DG win when: you need durability, clean lines, lower tracking of organic debris, and walkable surfaces (DG) with less routine upkeep.
In parkways, I often prefer DG with stabilizer; it stays neat, drains well, and doesn’t migrate as much as loose gravel.
Upkeep Made Simple
- Mulch: quick top-up every 12–18 months to keep color and depth. I set reminders so you don’t forget.
- Gravel: occasional rake and a light blower pass; add a bag or two where traffic displaces it.
- DG: if stabilized, a gentle sweep and spot fills; without stabilizer, periodic grooming keeps it looking fresh.
- Weeds: depth + edges do most of the work; we can pair with pre-emergent in problem spots.
Pricing & Estimates
I price by scope: square footage, access (gates/side yards), slope, edging type, and haul distance. You’ll get a clear, line-item estimate after the walkthrough—no surprises. If you’re staging a property or working in phases, I can split the project into clean, logical sections.
Service Area
Based in Moreno Valley, I serve the Inland Empire: Riverside, San Bernardino, Corona, Rancho Cucamonga, Fontana, Redlands, Yucaipa, Murrieta, Temecula, Hemet, Perris, Beaumont, Banning, Lake Elsinore, Menifee, Jurupa Valley, Eastvale, Rialto, Colton, Upland, Chino, and nearby cities. Not sure if I reach you? Ask and I’ll confirm.
FAQs
What materials can you install?
Premium bark mulch, dyed mulch (brown/black/red), pea gravel, river rock, 3/8″ crushed rock, cobble accents, and DG with or without stabilizer.
Do you handle delivery and cleanup?
Yes—delivery, installation, edging, and haul-away are part of the job. I leave paths and hardscape clean.
How do you keep lines so crisp?
I use string lines, cut clean transitions, and recommend metal or bender-board edging where curves need to hold.
Fabric or no fabric?
Depends. I like fabric under gravel/DG in weedy soils. Under mulch, I often skip it so the soil can breathe and we rely on depth + pre-emergent instead.
How quickly can you start?
After the walkthrough and material selection, I schedule delivery and lock dates. Small jobs can be fast; larger ones may split over 1–2 days.
Will mulch attract pests?
I keep mulch off trunks and siding, maintain proper depth, and suggest rock or DG near structures if you prefer a more pest-neutral buffer.
Get Your Free Walkthrough
Ready for a cleaner, water-wise yard? Book your free on-site estimate. I’ll help you pick materials, set crisp edges, and install with a tidy finish—no piles left behind.